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Laura Thieme

Bizresearch President – 10 years - 2007

Fisher College of Business Lecturer on Search Marketing

OSU Russian Studies Grad – 1993

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14th December 2007

Arthur Harbour, Palmer Station, Lemaire Channel & Una’s Tits

 (These are Antarctic mountains - really!)


Una’s Tits: Antarctic Mountains in Lemaire Channel

We woke early and ventured out before 8 a.m. this  morning on zodiac tours.  I hoped my quarantine which had been lifted for Palmer Research Station would be in effect also for the zodiac tour.  I was in luck and allowed on the tour, where we were able to see elephant seals war with one another in the water and otherwise lay around and do nothing.  It was snowing, and there was some swell in the harbour, however seeing our first glaciers and melting snow were so amazing that you quickly forgot how cold it was.  We returned and had a chance to warm up and rest. 


Glacial Snow Melt: Global Warming, Climate Change Observed

Around 3:30 this afternoon the climate change challenge group went out to Palmer Research Station in our Zodiac boat.  We received a more in-depth tour than the rest of the cruisers, allowing us to see the camera in its new workstation, as well as seeing the lab where various krill and other sealife were kept and monitored.


Climate Change Challenge Participants on Abercrombie’s Antarctic Cruise Tour Palmer Research Station

The research scientists have a pretty tough life.  It’s amazing to see their living conditions - you really have to love the science of Antarctica to make such a tough commitment to wintering or living a life of contained quarters.  Some of the scientists have worked in Antarctica for 18 - 25 years or more.  Basically their entire working lives.  They have such pride in their faces as they talk about their work, as well as concern for climate changes and global warming.  One person talked about Adelie penguins and how they’re likely to not be around in some areas in five years or less.  I could see emotion well up in the researcher’s eyes.  We’ve seen so few that perhaps it’s already noted in our areas a decline of 70% makes it harder for tourists like us to see while passing through.

After Palmer Research Stations we went on to Lemaire Channel.  The captain indicated we would have an impressive night and he was right.

Lemaire Channel Sunset here is around midnight, although you never really see the sunset here, at least not on our cruise. We’re about 65 degrees latitude.  Sunrise is around 2:25 a.m. or so, however,
there is no darkness - it’s like twilight during those two hours.  Apparently, you can see the sun bop below the horizon and bop back up around 66 degrees latitude on the antarctic circle.  Don’t quote all my details - i’ll add in references when i get back when possible, or feel free to comment and add your
own insights to this.Lemaire was impressive.  All of a sudden you see those volcanous mountains which have been named by a couple of men who used to come down here for quite some time - they named these impressive pointed mountains after a woman’s breasts - that’s not the real name
though - they’re actually called Una’s Tits. 

The mountains are just amazing - it was worth going against my doctor’s request that i not have anything other than tea to drink - it was worth a cognac - indeed!  Everyone was outside in their parkas, grabbing their cameras, and taking in the cold yet spectacular views - Abercrombie & Kent’s Explorer II does an amazing job of taking you into some beautiful places.  We’ve also been lucky because this is the first time this year that they’ve been able to get into Lemaire Channel due to ice conditions.So, I’m going to turn in.

Tomorrow we head to Deception Island and then begin our journey back to Ushuaia.  That represents something bittersweet - no sadness - settles in. This is an amazing journey that you should not miss - and yes, do come prepared for seasickness - but the sites are well worth it.

Good night.

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